![]() ![]() The symptom that I currently have is no power at all because the main fuse blown. For the second 30amp fuse, are you saying the sub-main fuse behind the starter solenoid? That one is good. So the issue should be within the red/red-white wires I guess.ģ. I disconnected red/red-white wires from starter solenoid and didn't read voltage between fuse terminals. I don't see another connector to RR somehow.Ģ. I only found one connector to the rectifier/regulator. If I disconnect the RR connector and the fuse terminals still show 12V. Theoretically if key is in OFF (which creates an open circuit at the switch) position there shouldn't be voltage between the fuse terminals, right? After diagnosing it for another couple of hours, here's the findings:ġ. I used a multimeter to measure the voltage between fuse terminals instead of burning more fuses. Check to make sure there are no bare wires, specifically the green ground wire(s) and the red/ *** wires. The Honda wiring is similar to all models and years as depicted in this pic:Īnother way to investigate is to peel back the wiring harness covering at the RR. I removed the RR and stator wiring when I installed the external alt mod a few years back, and in doing so found out how the wiring was connected. This joint is the reason the red/white wires are live at the connector - wiring harness side - at all times. This joint is directly below the gas fill cap in the wiring harness. The red wire and the red white wire at the starter solenoid are bonded/joined together in the wiring harness. These join into one and go to the starter solenoid. The same goes for the red/white wires in the connector. The green wires are ground wires and join into a single green ground just after disappearing into the wiring harness. ![]() If it is blown, the engine will not start. This wire provides power to the CFI system. Check to make sure there are no bare wires, specifically the green ground wire(s) and the red/*********** wires.Ī rosoepec mentions there is a second 30 amp fuse, a white wire connected to the battery terminal of the starter solenoid, follow this and check the dog bone fuse as well. Doing this will isolate where a possible fault is - on the ignition circuit or the RR charging circuit.Īnother way to investigate is to peel back the wiring harness covering at the RR. Will not affect the operation of the bike. Connect the red wires together, and the red/white wires together. I would next go through the wiring harness, find where the red and red/white wires are joined and cut out the splice where these wires are joined. This should isolate the RR wiring from the starter solenoid fuse. With the RR connectors disconnected, I would disconnect the red/white wire from the starter solenoid. I would disconnect the RR connectors - both - and install a new fuse. The red wire is a direct power wire to the ignition switch, and should be good. You mention the main fuse blows without the key on. The reason the red and red/white wires are connected is that after the battery has been topped up to a full charge state, the majority of the power produced goes into operating the electrical system bypassing the starter solenoid. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |